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   » » Wiki: Milena Canonero
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Milena Canonero (born 13 July 1949) is an Italian . She has received numerous accolades, including four , three BAFTA Awards, and two Costume Designers Guild Awards. She was honored with the CDG Career Achievement Award in 2001 and the Honorary Golden Bear in 2017.

Canonero is best known for her collaborations with directors , Francis Ford Coppola, and . She has received nine nominations for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design and has won four times for (1975), Chariots of Fire (1981), Marie Antoinette (2006), and The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014).


Early life and education
Canonero was born in , Italy. She attended university in , studying fashion, period design, and art history before moving to England in the late 1960s. She designed for friends' London boutiques and began assisting in commercials, meeting many filmmakers along the way. By chance, Canonero was also invited to watch shoot parts of the landmark (1968), and the director asked her to collaborate with him on his next feature film.


Career
Canonero received her first major screen credits for designing costumes for Kubrick's dystopian classic A Clockwork Orange (1971), based on ' novel of the same name. She created an instantly recognizable character's wardrobe that perfectly captures the film's discourse on class, money, and power through provoking aesthetics, which has since become an enduring inspiration for fashion icons and designers. Kubrick and Canonero continued their collaboration on the epic period drama (1975), based on the 1844 novel by William Makepeace Thackeray about social ladder in Britain. She and Swedish costume designer Ulla-Britt Söderlund examined original 18th-century attire at London's Victoria and Albert Museum and copied patterns from the collection to produce authentic-looking film garments. In their designs, the pair also drew inspiration from the period-defining art, including portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and , as well as paintings by Jean Siméon Chardin and , among others. They also sourced vintage fabrics, laces, and clothing from auction houses and private collections. By combining crafted film pieces with original clothing, the designers achieved unrivaled for the period drama authenticity sought by the director. Given the grand scale of production, the biggest challenge, however, was Kubrick's innovative decision to lens the film using only daylight or faint, flickering candlelight. Taking that into account, the costumes had to stand out noticeably both in shape and texture. Canonero and Söderlund won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for their exceptional work. At one point, approached her to design costumes for his 1977 landmark space opera Star Wars, an offer she eventually turned down while later considered it to be the biggest lost opportunity of her career. Canonero worked with Kubrick once again on the cult psychological horror The Shining (1980), based on 's novel of the same name. She won her second Academy Award for another collaboration with director , with whom she previously worked on the short film back in the early 1970s. This time they reunited on his iconic sports drama Chariots of Fire (1981), the true story of two British athletes in the 1924 Olympics. She superbly interpreted the 1920s English tweeds, blazers, and college garb to the extent of inspiring 1980s fashion trends; such great success led to an offer for Canonero to create a clothing line for men's-wear manufacturer Norman Hilton, for which she received a special .

Canonero’s next major film was 's Out of Africa (1985), based on Danish author 's autobiographical memoir of the same name about her decade-long experiences in colonial Kenya starting just before the outbreak of World War I. Canonero faced a formidable challenge when tasked in a strict three-month term to research, design, and produce hundreds of costumes appropriate for a vast ensemble of characters that includes African natives, white hunters, and European nobility. It took her on an intense journey everywhere, from the New York Public Library to the various museums and costume houses across England and Italy, and from the in Denmark to Africa, where she met anthropologist , who consulted her on less known aspects of African fashion in the 1910s, especially those regarding the indigenous groups.

Beside her well-established screen career, Canonero is known for creating costumes for stage. She frequently collaborated with director on his numerous opera productions. Those include (Vienna State Opera, 1979), As You Like It (Salzburg Festival, 1980), (Vienna State Opera, 1980), Andrea Chénier (Vienna State Opera, 1981), and (Metropolitan Opera, 1983). Canonero provided the costumes and set design for 's 1999 production of 's Amadeus at Milan's . She also worked with director on such productions as (Metropolitan Opera, 2009) and Helena (, 2010).

On television, Canonero designed costumes for crime drama series in the 1980s.

In 2001, Canonero received the Career Achievement Award in Film from the Costume Designers Guild. She won her third Oscar for 's Marie Antoinette (2006).

Canonero received her fourth Academy Award for The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014), directed by . This marked her third collaboration with the director, as they had previously worked together on The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou (2004) and The Darjeeling Limited (2007).


Personal life
Canonero is married to actor . , Canonero is based out of Rome, Italy.


Filmography
1971A Clockwork Orange
1975with Ulla-Britt Söderlund
1977The Disappearance
1978Midnight Express
1980The ShiningStanley Kubrick
1981Chariots of Fire
1983The Hunger
1984Give My Regards to Broad StreetPeter Webb
The Cotton ClubFrancis Ford Coppola
1985Out of Africa
1987Good Morning, BabylonPaolo Taviani
Vittorio Taviani
Associate producer
Barfly
1988Francis Ford Coppola
1989Hugh HudsonCostume design consultant
1990The Bachelorwith Alberto Verso
Dick Tracy
Reversal of FortuneBarbet SchroederCostume consultant
The Godfather Part IIIFrancis Ford Coppola
1992Single White FemaleBarbet SchroederAlso production designer
Damage
1994Only You
Love AffairGlenn Gordon Caron
Camilla
Death and the Maiden
1998Warren Beatty
1999Titus
2001The Affair of the Necklace
2002SolarisSteven Soderbergh
2004ErosSegment: "Equilibrium"
Ocean's Twelve
The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou
2006Marie Antoinette
Manoel de Oliveira
2007Wes AndersonShort film acts as a to The Darjeeling Limited
The Darjeeling Limited
I ViceréRoberto Faenza
2010The Wolfman
2011CarnageRoman Polanski
Someday This Pain Will Be Useful to YouRoberto FaenzaProducer
2013Romeo & JulietCo-producer
Something Good
Castello CavalcantiWes AndersonShort film commissioned by 
2014The Grand Budapest Hotel
2016Paris Can Wait
2018The Sisters Brothers
2021The French DispatchWes Anderson
2022Hill of VisionRoberto Faenzawith Bojana Nikitovic
Also producer
2023Wes Anderson
2024MegalopolisFrancis Ford Coppola
2025The Phoenician SchemeWes Anderson


Awards and nominations
Major associations
1976Best Costume Design
1982Chariots of Fire
1986Out of Africa
1989
1991Dick Tracy
2000Titus
2002The Affair of the Necklace
2007Marie Antoinette
2015The Grand Budapest Hotel

BAFTA Awards

1976Best Costume Design
1982Chariots of Fire
1986The Cotton Club
1987Out of Africa
1991Dick Tracy
2007Marie Antoinette
2015The Grand Budapest Hotel
2022The French Dispatch

Miscellaneous awards
+
2008I Viceré
2005Excellence in Contemporary FilmThe Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou
Ocean's Twelve
2007Excellence in Period FilmMarie Antoinette
2015The Grand Budapest Hotel
2017Excellence in Short Form DesignH&M: ""
2008I Viceré
2006Marie Antoinette
2008I Viceré
2012Best ProducerSomeday This Pain Will Be Useful to You
2014Best Costume DesignThe Grand Budapest Hotel and Something Good
2024
2014The Grand Budapest Hotel
2002The Affair of the Necklace
2006Marie Antoinette
2015The Grand Budapest Hotel
1991Dick Tracy
2011The Wolfman
2025The Phoenician Scheme


Other honours
  • - Grand Cross of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic on 21 December 2015.


Notes

Further reading
  • Fabienne Liptay (ed.), Milena Canonero. Film-Konzepte 40 (edition text + kritik, 2015).


External links
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